The Amboise Museum
Musée - Hôtel Morin (Right)
Although known locally as The Museum, its official title is Le Musée-Hôtel Morin. For English visitors, the word hotel (from hostel) can be confusing. In England, a hotel is where people stay. In France, The Hôtel de Ville is the town hall. Even more confusing it’s also used for hotels but Hotel Morin is not and never was a commercial hotel. This was the very grand family home of Pierre Morin, Treasurer of France, the wealthy son of a wealthy cloth merchant.
The entrance is at the side. Was it originally? When it was built, it was on the river bank so perhaps with waters lapping the foundations a front door was not a good idea. Until the present highly effective flood barriers were built, the Loire frequently entered the town although its equally illustrious neighbour, the church of Saint Florentin, built around the same time on the bank does have a front door.
Musée - Hôtel Morin (Left)
Built between 1501 and 1505 at the flowering of the French Renaissance, this was one of the first permanent monuments in Amboise. Its carefully chosen strategic position at the entrance to the city, ensured it was the first building visitors to Amboise saw and indeed still see today. Impressive then, impressive now, Amboise is to be congratulated for the pride it takes in its heritage.
It’s thought Pierre Morin commissioned local architects, Jacques Cocqueau and Pierre Nepveu, who worked on Château Chambord and Château Chenonceau.
The Morin’s were cloth merchants who had the great good fortune of trading when the royal family acquired Château Amboise. Pierre’s father was the main supplier to the Royal Courts of Louis XI and his son Charles VIII.
He imported priceless carpets from the east, tapestries from Flanders and sheer silks and taffeta from Italy and Germany. This eclectic mix resulted in the distinctive, opulent style associated with the French Court.
Château Royal d'Amboise
The Château had well over two hundred rooms. All those cold stone walls had to be covered with huge rugs and tapestries. The royal beds of kings, queens, princes and princesses, had to be dressed with fine velvets, taffetas, damasks, silks and gold fabrics. Small wonder the family became so rich.
Pierre Morin followed in his father’s footsteps and became a cloth merchant until he married Jeanne, the daughter of Jean de Beaune, a member of a select, inner circle of the wealthy up and coming bourgeoisie in Tours.
Leaving trade behind him, not only did he become Mayor (some sources say Tours, others Amboise) he was appointed Treasurer of France, the highest position in the realm. Who better to manage the king’s coffers than a man born with business running in his veins.
To reflect his high status, Pierre built his house in stone. Building in stone was expensive. For their houses, the less well off had to content themselves with wood or brick although it must be said that, built at the same time by master craftsmen, many of these have also survived. No wonder that Amboise is such a pretty little town.
Until 1970, Pierre Morin’s beautiful home was the town hall. When the new one was built, it became Musée de l' Hotel de Ville.
All civil marriages in Amboise take place here in The Marriage Room. Even if you are not getting spliced, it’s still worth a wander inside to see, among other treasures, the signatures of Charles VIII, Louis XII and François I, beautiful Aubusson tapestries, the Leonardo da Vinci room and the original Virgin in the Belfry. Sculpted in the 1500s, Pierre Morin would have known it well.
Post by Pamela, photography by Mark.
